Thrice for the Charm – Colonia, Uruguay

On a sunny Saturday I sat on the blue cloth covered recliner of the river ferry, docked in  the Buenos Aires port, set to cross the river.  The engines fired up and I glanced at my blackberry, whose red light blinked to signify the receipt of a message.

Vivers what are you doing today?

Going to stupid Uruguay.  You?

Aw haha, was thinking yoga/lunch with you.  😥

Sounds like perfection!  I wish I was doing that instead of renewing my tourist visa!

Find a place called Lentas Maravillas.  Really nice quiet garden out back.  Perfect for reading a book and eating a redondo.

I was alone, only Steinbeck to keep my imagination engaged and tentative plans to meet up with a friend when I arrived.  When the ferry landed, I disembarked the vessel only to discover that my cell phone had no service.  Normally this would have induced great anxiety in me, on top of the anxiety I already experience while traveling.  But this day I looked up and the sunny sky and let it warm me and thought ‘this was supposed to happen.’

I set out walking, opening myself to the endless possibilities of having no set plan, determined that I would find whatever I was meant to find.  I walked down Colonia’s wide cobblestone boulevard, noticing how it was unchanged from my last visit.  Compared to Buenos Aires, Colonia was refreshingly boring, inducing a sensation like that of crashing from a sugar rush while simultaneously entering a meditation.  Thick-trunked trees gave shade to countless sidewalk cafes filled with leisurely, laughing patrons, drinking wine and coffee, eating chivitos and ice cream.  A strong smell of slow roasted meat hung in the air, giving the impression that the entire village was one big asado picnic.

I wandered through the park and down empty antique streets, taking in the 50’s era modern, minimalist architectural style of one-story houses, mixed in eclectically with much older colonial buildings.  I craved a coffee, and as I turned a corner, I found Lentas Maravillas.  Or maybe it found me.  From the outside it appeared to be someone’s home, and when I entered, this impression only grew stronger.  For a moment, I hesitated, almost positive that I had walked into someone’s private home on accident.

I sat in the living room and admired the impressive, accumulated library and the funky mix-matched mod and colonial style furnishings.   I ordered a capuchino and a redondo, as it had been recommended to me, although I didn’t know what it was.  I felt as if I were in someone’s country home, relaxing with a book while the quiet twinkle of jazz music wafted through the room like a soft breeze.  Sunlight streamed through the large windows and the view of the river beyond the rolling, shady lawn was more beautiful than any mural or wall hanging.  I lost myself in East of Eden for the entire afternoon, and as I headed back to the ferry, I was more sure than ever; this was supposed to happen.  It was my third time in Colonia, but the first time I’d really appreciated its charm.

Lentas Maravillas

Colonia, Uruguay

Santa Rita 61

0522 0636


About MyBeautifulAir

Wherever I go, there I am.
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6 Responses to Thrice for the Charm – Colonia, Uruguay

  1. If you want to see BEEF served, sail into Montevideo and see all of the Asados at the port. Wow!

  2. Juan says:

    Huh..nice place.. I made many yacht races or relax trips to Colonia, but never heard about this place… Thanks for the advise. I also reccomend good cheese and picadas with a bootle of tannat, the best wine you get in Uruguay in ” El Buen Suspiro”…. in winter, near the fire place…
    Enjoy !

  3. mau says:

    Uruguay was not so stupid after all…I see you learnt how to be a perfect snob selfish porteña…keep coming to our stupid country and leaving your dollars here, you smart girl!

  4. barbazjh says:

    Your blog on your trip to Colonia makes me want to return to that charming little place and get away from the city, if only for a little while. How was your trip into “East of Eden”?

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